Etosha and Fabulous Game Viewing

Yeah, we're heading on a big trip!

Etosha is Namibia's largest wildlife park.  My writing will be brief--I want you to be able to get a sense of some of the animals we observed.  This January was the best animal viewing of my 3 years.  On the first day we watch Elephants for over 30 minutes.  They were on the side of the road and although one mama wasn't too happy at times, we enjoyed watching the movement of a herd of 12 elephants.

We stayed at Dolomite Camp which is on the western side of the park and opened about a year ago.  The 20 tent sites sit on top of  a ridge so from one side you can watch the sunset and the other side the sunrise.  There is an infinity pool that overlooks the savannah and is a fantastic swimming experience.

My room view

It's my foot and I am entertaining the students with my submarine water move!

The students went for an afternoon game drive when we got to Okakuejo inside the camp, but I opted out and missed the cheetah that followed the car for 20 minutes.  I will need to get pictures from the students.

I decided to go on the early morning game drive (6:15 AM) and we were treated to close viewing of two different lion prides.  The last pride crossed in from of our van and you could see the blood from their recent meal.  The were walking through the savannah and crossing the road to where there were several trees that would keep them cool during the day and allow them to sleep off their meal. 

More pictures of the other animals in Etosha

We thought the baby was dead, but that's how the babies get rest, with the mothers diligently watching and guarding

Steenbok in the background

A territorial Black Rhino--charged another Rhino trying to get a drink

Rock dassie

Kudos

Bat eared foxes

Sociable weaver birds

Schools and Drought Relief

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Suzy, one of our students was happy to converse.

After leaving the tent school, Uanee really wanted us to visit his primary school, a government school for children living in Opuwo.  Government schools in Opuwo are permanent structures and all students are required to wear uniforms.  When we arrived we saw people sitting around a large tree—someone mentioned it looked like the Tree of Life from Avatar, but seeing that I haven’t seen the film, I can’t really say.  I just know that everyone from surrounding homesteads were there—Himba, Herero and Zemba, all waiting to receive their drought relief supplies which were white bags of maize stacked in a large pile.   Because this was Uanaee’s community, we were allowed to take pictures which was really nice to not worry about offending anyone.  He explained that we were with him learning about their community and had brought food and supplies to the school.

Waiting for food, government lady in blue

Our first stop was the school, but we learned that the students had left school at 10:30 that day in order for teachers to either pick up their pay checks or attend a meeting.  I can’t be sure, but I remember hearing both reasons.  However, one teacher, had already returned, so she gathered some kids that were part of the crowd waiting to receive their maize.  About 20 children came, sat in desks, and said good afternoon to all of us.  Then they decided to sing to us and once again they selected religious songs.  After we sang our anthem, we decided to get them to sing Head and Shoulders with us. We gathered in a circle and sang the song three times, so our last version was sung quickly, although not the speedy version sung by most American elementary students.  We saved some  supplies for this school and decided to give the kids a new pencil prior to giving the school supplies to the teacher. The learners as they are referred to in Namibia were thrilled, and it was interesting to see more children appear as soon as word spread we were passing out pencils.  A brand new pencil, especially when there is a choice between yellow and  colorful patterned pencils was rather exciting. The great ending to our time in the classroom was when a group of Namibian children gathered around our students and sang their national anthem.  What a touching moment and I am always moved by how the students sing together, create their own harmony, and produce a beautiful sound. 

Singing to the PLU students

Everyone wants a pencil.

My helpers who carried maize and supplies.

Everyone is happy to help.

We then returned to the drought relief tree where people were still sitting around.  We wandered around the different groups—one group was young Himba girls/women with babies, another was Herero in traditional dress and there were also women from the Zemba tribe.  People mingled and there were a few men who tended to stand and talk, unlike the women who tended to sit patiently.  The government lady would call out a name, someone in the crowd might call out the name loudly if there was no movement, and finally someone ambled over to the government lady, showed identification, picked up maize bags and deposited them some place, not always next to where they were sitting.  Then that maize recipient would return to their spot and continue sitting.  This was the rhythm of the afternoon.  During the time we were there, I saw only two groups of people leave, even though several more received their food.  One of the families traveled in a donkey cart and the other drove away in a pick up truck.

Herero women

Himba women and babies

A Zemba woman waiting with her baby

Uanee knew a group of 4 Himba women sitting in their own area of the tree and motioned for us to come over.  He explained their hair, jewelry made from metal and red skin (mixture of red rock and animal fat or oil).  Although the mixture provides protection from the sun, it really is about beauty to the Himba women. While Uanee was talking, I was standing next to a woman holding a small child (maybe 7 months) and a two year old.  She handed me her baby and of course I took the child and didn’t worry about what happened to my shirt.  His skin was soft and I was lucky with the timing, seeing there are no diapers (I stayed dry). I can still recollect the softness of the baby’s skin and loved that he seemed quite content being handed off to a total stranger.   About 5 minutes later, the woman handed Kelli who was wearing a white shirt, the two year old.  He was wearing a little more clothing, but her white shirt also had red stains.  He was more skeptical about being held, but Kelli and I loved the experience.

We are all intrigued and fortunate to have such a connected and knowledgeable guide.

The back of the hair, only the fluffy balls on the end are extensions--this style keeps for about 3 months.  

So soft...

Kelli is happy, the toddler isn't totally sure.

Showing off our colors!  Everything does clean up.

After Uanee’s explanation of the Himba hairstyles, we wandered off but then heard his booming voice shout, READY?? and I reluctantly climbed back into our vehicle—reluctant because I just loved watching and being part of this incredibly slow pace and also because I was curious when and how people would gather their maize and head back to their homesteads.  

Some men were hanging around.  The sticks are for tending goat herds.

Tent Schools

Paula’s first work in Namibia was with the Ondao Mobile School Project.  A positive aspect of Namibia’s Independence was free education for all children in Namibia.  The Himba people are nomadic herders who move to water and good grazing.  They also maintain a traditional lifestyle with traditions including clothing.  Traditional government schools did not meet the needs of the Himba children and with funding from Norway and the US, the Ondao Mobile School project started to provide education for the Himbas in tent schools that followed the movement of groups of people.  Paula and others from PLU and Norway trained teachers and so part of our comparative education focus is to allow our students to visit tent school sites.

Scouting the conditions

Uanee drove and we all climbed back it

We drove on a tarred road for perhaps 4 km, and the rest of the travel was on bumpy dirt roads, that became even more challenging once we made the turn for the school.  As we were buying maize, sugar and oil to provide food for the learners, Uanee spotted Moses in the parking lot of the OK grocery store.  Fortunately we invited him to join us, otherwise I don’t know how we would have spotted the turn.  This was the first time we had visited this site, but they were expecting us.  Matthew, one of the teachers had gone through Paula’s training.  He was sitting under a tree waiting for us as we arrived.  Unfortunately he was in tremendous pain—he struggles to walk with a cane so I am not sure of the issues, but a student had Advil with her and was able to provide him some relief. 

Inside the Church property with the younger teacher

New pencils!

When we walked into the structure (a local church hall) that the Grades 3-4 learners use during the week, the students were just sitting quietly, but immediately stood as Paula and I entered.  I said “Good morning Learners,” and they responded “Good morning Teacher.”  I thought they would sit after the formal greeting, but they waiting for my hand motion and “Please sit” before they would sit.  There were 25 learners in a mix of western and traditional dress.  All those students wearing traditional dress were on one side of the room, and the others in varying states of uniform and western clothing were on the other side.  There were two learners for each chair, and often 8 learners were crowded around 2 desks.  Perhaps the close proximity to each other and the sharing of seats was one of the reasons they sat separately.  My mind did wander to the book title, Why are all the Black Kids Sitting Together in the Cafeteria? 

 I don’t have an answer and when we walked across the yard to the actual tent with Grade 1 and 2 learners, the crowding was the same, there was an age mix, so not all 6 and 7 year loads, and there was a mix of clothing, but there was no pattern to how they sat.  Even a girl who was either very tall, but most likely at least 12 years old, was sitting among the smaller children.  The younger group sang Christian songs to us and we responded by singing our National Anthem and a couple of songs our students knew from church.  It was a nice exchange.  We then presented the learners with new pencils, and gave the teacher supplies we had brought.  Our students were at kid level helping sharpen pencils and try them out on half sheets of paper.  Students also received a sticker on their hand and we gave the rest of the packet to a smiling teacher.

Grade 1 and 2 learners

All ages want to learn to read.  Hair pulled down in the front indicates pre-pubescent

The colorful beads indicate they are Zemba related to Himba

Megan and MeKenzie enjoying their interactions

It is always easy to find learners to carry food.  Mostly the boys are chosen, but I asked the girl if she was strong and wanted to help.